NZ Day 12 - Milford Tramp

Our last night on the track was spent in Dumpling Hut. It too had the awe-inspiring views of towering mountains that we had now grown used to.

We had been so lucky to get 3 days of sunshine we weren't surprised that the weather forecast for day 4 was rain. But we still got half a day of overcast skies before it actually started to rain. So lucky. Especially because Day 4 was actually the longest distance we had to walk - 18km (if you don't count the 5km side-trip to Sutherland Falls on Day 3). We knew we had to power through those 18km if we were going to reach the 3pm ferry. Even though the rangers kept saying 'you haven't really experienced the Milford Track if you haven't experienced it in the rain', I was quite happy to go without that particular novelty.

Loved this lake we walked past - the water was super still.

There were swing-bridges right along the track, but it seemed to me like there were more on the last day than on any other.

Even though we were all sore and tired from the previous day's exertions, we did have enough energy to stop & look at the scenery. This is Bell Rock - a small cave we crawled into - inside it has been hollowed out by water in the shape of a bell. Those are B's legs you can spy.

Bell Rock sits conveniently next to Mackay Falls - a particularly pretty cascading waterfall high up in the valley.

The track was fairly easy walking on the last day (thank god), but no less picturesque.

I couldn't resist a few last photos of the mountains we were leaving behind.

Yet another impressive waterfall - this is Giant's Gate Falls - I liked them because the water was being pushed through such a small opening, it almost looked like snow.

The home stretch - wide and smooth... oh yeah.

The 33 mile marker. The track was only supposed to be 33 miles. Of course, we all realised it wouldn't be exactly 33 miles. But I expected to be at least able to see the hut from here. I couldn't. In fact, it was another 1/2 mile up the track. By this stage we were all in our own heads and own zones and had split up. I know I was swearing at the unfairness of it all as I trudged that last 1/2 mile.

I have no idea where I pulled the extra energy from to keep going, but the human body is amazing like that - it found something somewhere & delivered me safely to the end. I nearly started crying when I saw this. You can just see B doing a bit of a victory dance :-)

And look, here's proof - tired, but also high on adrenaline & proud that I pushed through the pain & discomfort to conquer the Milford Track!

The Stats
Distance: 53.5km (33.5 miles)
Time: 4 days
Difficulty: Classed as Easy by DOC, but with a fair few medium & hard bits thrown in for good measure

NZ Day 11 - Milford Tramp

As we had just beaten the rain the previous night I waited until the next morning to get a photo of Mintaro Hut. It was basically surrounded on all sides by looming mountains - cool :-)

The walk out of Mintaro passed through more mossy forest.

Despite the sun coming through the trees, it was very very cold in there.

We knew before we started out Day 3 was going to be a big day - we had to climb up the remaining section of Mackinnon Pass & then climb all the way back down again. Luckily we had yet more good weather forecasted - which is almost unheard of around these parts.

The climb actually wasn't too hard - it was a series of 11 switch backs (or, as our hut ranger, Kate, the night before had explained in hilarious detail - zig zags... Hmm, I guess you had to be there :-)). It also provided even more impossible scenery. That white slash in the side of the mountain is the result of an avalanche from a few weeks earlier.

Most of the Milford track is on pretty wide tracks, but not the climb - it's basically hugging the side of the mountain.

At about zig-zag number 7 we started seeing snow covering the track. I found it really weird to be sweating in the sun from climbing, yet being provided evidence of how cold it still was up there.

It pays to look behind you sometimes - this is what we were leaving behind.

Getting near the top of the pass provided more glimpses of the mountains on the other side.

The memorial to Quintin Mackinnon at the top - he was the first European to find the way through the mountains.

I don't think I have ever been so richly rewarded for climbing a hill before. Just look at the views.

You can call me Adventure Girl!

Apart from the scenery, the other star attraction on the Milford Track is the wildlife, including the cheeky Kea. This guy was hanging around the pass, hoping to score some booty. We had already been warned numerous times about their intelligence and persistence. I reckon you can tell how naughty he is just by looking at him.

Everyone wanted photos of him getting into the packs, so we basically stood back & let him go for it. Clever little bugger - only took him about 30 seconds to work out the zips & velcro closures on the packs.

If there wasn't anything interesting to be found quickly, he moved on to the next one.

And the next.

Moving on from the pass, we headed for the Mackinnon Hut, passing more stunning scenery along the way.

Could you ever tire of this? Seriously!

Looking down into the valley.

After a tiny bit more climbing, we reached our goal.

The highest point on the track - 1154m!

Yep, I was there :-)

From Mackinnon hut we were provided with amazing views back down into Clinton Valley, which we had walked through the previous two days. We could even see Mintaro Hut.

Apart from boiling some water for a hot drink, the other reason to stop at Mackinnon Hut is to take advantage of the toilet with the best view in Fiordland (& reputedly the world). Here she is.

And guess what? The view is so good, they have even put a window in so you can sit & ponder life's meaning while doing your business :-)

Moving on, we headed for the next part of the track, which we all knew was going to hurt - climbing back down 970m. We passed (& walked through) quite a few large patches of snow in this section. This is another, smaller, ice cave, which was breaking up pretty quickly.

Now, the climb back down was horrible. Really horrible. The track was closed due to avalanche risk, so we had to take the emergency track down. Which was extremely steep, extremely uneven & lasted for AGES. Pretty much every other tramper that we spoke to about that climb down agreed that it was difficult. It was the kind of descent where your legs begin to wobble & you start to wonder if the next step is the one when they're just going to give out on you. So, as you have probably realised, it was not a particularly enjoyable experience.

But, despite all the horrible-ness, there were still some nice views.

Everyone was very glad to reach Quintin Lodge - where we were going to dump our packs & head off for a side trip to Sutherland Falls. I can't tell you what a relief it was to get those packs off our back.

This little Weka running around was also quite nice.

We had been told by hut ranger Kate the night before that we absolutely, positively, must go to Sutherland Falls, no matter how tired we were. She was right. They were awesome.

The tallest falls in NZ, at 580m, with 3 vertical leaps down the side of the mountain.

The noise was massive.

The spray was massive - & I don't like getting wet, so here I am all kitted out against the wet stuff.

The valley around the falls were VERY green - I guess as a result of the spray from the falls providing a convenient, 24 hour watering system.

The 2 boys decided to be adventurous & head down to the base of the falls to fill their water bottles. It provided a convenient photo opportunity for me to show the scale of the falls.

Crazy buggers :-)

Walking along the track towards our hut we were provided with one final view of the falls - pretty.

Day 3 of the tramp was amazing, but absolutely exhausting & at times painful. We walked about 19km, & they were the most difficult kms of the track. The mind is a funny thing. Because even though I'm sitting here, writing about how painful the day was, I'm also thinking about how friggin' awesome it felt to conquer it & a tiny part of me is already dreaming about the next tramp I can tackle that will provide similar punishment.