Italia Day 29 - Padova

After 2 days in Venice I had had enough of the crowds & took a day trip to Padova (or Padua) today. It was only 40min away &, with it's long history as a student town, sounded like an interesting place to see. There were a few sights I wanted to see - mainly Basilica Pontificia di Sant'Antonio di Padova. I did have a map, but it's not a big place, so I decided to wing it.

As soon as I got off the train I spotted something large & church-like nearby so I wandered over. It wasn't the one I was after but was still impressive.

Wandering down the main street I came across this ancient Roman amphitheatre (whose walls are obviously undergoing restoration). The main amphitheatre is still being used for concerts & plays, and it's surrounded by beautiful gardens, which managed to distract me from my mission to visit the church for a while.

Next tourist site on the main street is the one most people visit Padova for - the Scrovegni Chapel. It contains a famous fresco by Giotto, which Da Vinci cited as his main influence. Unfortunately to get in you need to book at least 3 days in advance. Oh well, 'next time'.

Before I reached St Anthony's, I reached Università degli Studi di Padova - the second oldest University in Italy, it was formed by a group of renegade students from the oldest university in Bologna. I paid for a tour & learned that it was home to people like Galileo (chair of mathematics) & contains the oldest permanent anatomical theatre in the world (which I got to see, but couldn't take photos of). It has an unassuming entrance in the main street.

The ceilings on the all the balconies contain beautiful frescoes.

This is Elena Lucrezia Cornaro Piscopia, the first woman in the world to be awarded a university degree.

From the university I did some aimless wandering. It's still possible to get a sense of the medieval town in the winding cobblestone streets.

There are a few canals in Padova, but nothing like Venice.

Next I happened upon the Duomo di Padova. Apparently the 13th century bapistry (the building on the right) contains some pretty stunning artwork, but it cost money & I'm pretty much over spending money to visit stuff now).

It's another church with an understated, but elegant, interior. I sat for quite a while & contemplated some stuff. Don't know what's come over me lately, sitting in churches & all.

Some Venetian-like buildings on a canal.

The architecture was great - in fact the whole town reminded me a lot of Florence - I think it was the student vibe. Both cities have reminded me a lot of Melbourne. Padova also had some great fashion, like I mean really great (away from the main tourist strips which just contain the high-end labels). My credit card was lucky to make it out alive.

About lunchtime I found myself in Prato della Valle. It's a massive square/park enclosed by a canal & ringed with statues. I ate my picnic lunch & sat for ages, just watching the people in the park & the fish in the canal.

Eventually I decided to keep moving - I spotted this imposing church next to the park & figured it had to be St Anthony's.

It wasn't, but I still wandered around it, admiring the sheer scale of the building.

After a minor mishap I found myself on the edge of town & had to give in & open the map to find my way back. Spotted this street art along the way - it was quite beautiful & continued for another whole concrete panel.

Finally I found what I had been looking for since 9am - St Anthony's!

I ask you - how is it possible to lose such a huge church in a small town like Padova?

Again, there were no photos allowed inside, but I think it's my favourite church interior so far. You'll just have to visit it yourself to find out why.

Uh oh, what's this? It's the Biblioteca Antoniana - St Anthony's library - closed. Oh well, 'next time'.

There are some beautiful courtyard gardens in the basilica.

After the church I went and sat on a wall & pulled out my map again. I knew there was a statue by Donatello somewhere nearby (considered to be one of finest examples of Renaissance bronze sculpture) but I couldn't see it. Sometimes it pays to look up - I was sitting on it!

Padova was once a walled medieval city. Not much of the wall remains, but there are occasional glimpses.

A nice pair of buildings in the main street.

This isn't actually Padova - it's me standing on a bridge in Venice after another lovely vegan meal at Gam Gam. Tonight is my last night here. As much as the crowds bother me, I will miss the crazy city.

Italia Day 28 - Venezia

Wow - up to date again! Today started with an early run again - this time I aimed for the northern side of Venice to see the Laguna Veneta. Here is an intersection, Venetian style.

The part that I ran too was much more residential - here is some washing hanging out to dry - proof that real people do live here.

Another beautiful, quiet, canal.

Sunrise across the lagoon.

I headed off early & hopped on the Number 1 Vaporetto for San Marco. I could have walked, but what's a visit to Venice without getting on the water? Luckily I was able to nab a spot by the side so I could take some photos. Here is the central police station - these blue & white pylons are all over the city. I wonder what the fine is for parking your gondola in a police spot?

This made me smile - workman fixing a broken 'street' light.

Gondala parking.

Obviously it's been done the same way here for hundreds of years, but I still can't get used to the fact that EVERYTHING is done on water here - including wine delivery.

Heading under the Ponte di Rialto.

The wine men again - reached their destination.

Delicate manoeuvring of the gondalas.

One advantage of paying extra for a small boat trip would be the chance to explore the dozens of smaller canals that lead off the Grand Canal.

Heading past Palazzo Grassi, which I visited yesterday.

Coming up to Ponte dell'Academia - with the sun high in the sky.

DHL couriers doing their thing.

Shortly followed by the postman.

After 30min or so the boat dropped me at San Marco & I joined the already long queue to enter the Basilica. There were no photos allowed inside, but here is a peek of what it was like - this is an intricate golden mosaic. The ceilings inside the cathedral are covered with these - it's quite beautiful. Unfortunately, due to the number of people that visit, boardwalks have been installed to protect the mosaic floors & most areas of the church are roped off.

I hadn't actually planned on paying to visit the bell tower, but once I looked up I was itching to climb it. I had another particularly annoying tourist approach me at the bottom. She wanted to know how much entry cost and then complained about paying and asked me 'what will I see anyway?'. I just stared at her and said as politely as I could, 'Ummm... Venice'. What did she think she was going to see - Rome? Tourists! I wish I wasn't one of them...

Unfortunately it was elevator only to the top, but the views were still spectacular. This is looking down on Piazza San Marco.

Across to the Grand Canal.

The crowds below.

One of the bells. Looking at the state of the stairs, I can understand why people aren't allowed to climb the tower anymore. Still, it would have been nice...

Another view of the Grand Canal.

The top of the Basilica.

The tower's shadow on Venice below. What struck me the most was the fact that you can't see the canals from up there - from above Venice looks like any other city.

My proof shot. I was so intent on not dropping the camera I forgot to smile.

The tower & the Basilica - very different, but equally impressive, structures.

I packed a lot in to the morning. From the bell tower it was straight to Palazzo Ducale. The museum is a fascinating insight into Venetian history & the role the Doge's have played. Photos weren't allowed in any of the inside areas, but I managed to get a couple of shots outside. This is the internal courtyard.

This small slot was where anonymous accusations of crimes could be submitted.

View from the prisons out to the Grand Canal.

An impressive marble staircase, flanked by statues of Neptune & Mars.

I finished my morning with a visit to Museo Correr, mainly because entry was included in the ticket price to the Palazzo Ducale. It houses an impressive collection of renaissance paintings, sculptures and hundreds of artifacts from Venetian history. My highlight were the two libraries - they had books from 800AD on display, very special. No photos allowed again, so take my word for it - it's worth a visit. By this stage I was about ready to collapse and headed back to the hostel, where I am sitting now, typing this.

On the way I passed this canal filled with gondolas. All I could think was 'where gondolas go to die...'.

Tomorrow I plan on making a day trip to Padua, so stay tuned for more adventures in Veneto.