Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Italia Day 29 - Padova

After 2 days in Venice I had had enough of the crowds & took a day trip to Padova (or Padua) today. It was only 40min away &, with it's long history as a student town, sounded like an interesting place to see. There were a few sights I wanted to see - mainly Basilica Pontificia di Sant'Antonio di Padova. I did have a map, but it's not a big place, so I decided to wing it.

As soon as I got off the train I spotted something large & church-like nearby so I wandered over. It wasn't the one I was after but was still impressive.
Wandering down the main street I came across this ancient Roman amphitheatre (whose walls are obviously undergoing restoration). The main amphitheatre is still being used for concerts & plays, and it's surrounded by beautiful gardens, which managed to distract me from my mission to visit the church for a while.
Next tourist site on the main street is the one most people visit Padova for - the Scrovegni Chapel. It contains a famous fresco by Giotto, which Da Vinci cited as his main influence. Unfortunately to get in you need to book at least 3 days in advance. Oh well, 'next time'.
Before I reached St Anthony's, I reached Università degli Studi di Padova - the second oldest University in Italy, it was formed by a group of renegade students from the oldest university in Bologna. I paid for a tour & learned that it was home to people like Galileo (chair of mathematics) & contains the oldest permanent anatomical theatre in the world (which I got to see, but couldn't take photos of). It has an unassuming entrance in the main street.
The ceilings on the all the balconies contain beautiful frescoes.
This is Elena Lucrezia Cornaro Piscopia, the first woman in the world to be awarded a university degree.
From the university I did some aimless wandering. It's still possible to get a sense of the medieval town in the winding cobblestone streets.
There are a few canals in Padova, but nothing like Venice.
Next I happened upon the Duomo di Padova. Apparently the 13th century bapistry (the building on the right) contains some pretty stunning artwork, but it cost money & I'm pretty much over spending money to visit stuff now).
It's another church with an understated, but elegant, interior. I sat for quite a while & contemplated some stuff. Don't know what's come over me lately, sitting in churches & all.
Some Venetian-like buildings on a canal.
The architecture was great - in fact the whole town reminded me a lot of Florence - I think it was the student vibe. Both cities have reminded me a lot of Melbourne. Padova also had some great fashion, like I mean really great (away from the main tourist strips which just contain the high-end labels). My credit card was lucky to make it out alive.
About lunchtime I found myself in Prato della Valle. It's a massive square/park enclosed by a canal & ringed with statues. I ate my picnic lunch & sat for ages, just watching the people in the park & the fish in the canal.
Eventually I decided to keep moving - I spotted this imposing church next to the park & figured it had to be St Anthony's.
It wasn't, but I still wandered around it, admiring the sheer scale of the building.
After a minor mishap I found myself on the edge of town & had to give in & open the map to find my way back. Spotted this street art along the way - it was quite beautiful & continued for another whole concrete panel.
Finally I found what I had been looking for since 9am - St Anthony's!
I ask you - how is it possible to lose such a huge church in a small town like Padova?
Again, there were no photos allowed inside, but I think it's my favourite church interior so far. You'll just have to visit it yourself to find out why.

Uh oh, what's this? It's the Biblioteca Antoniana - St Anthony's library - closed. Oh well, 'next time'.
There are some beautiful courtyard gardens in the basilica.
After the church I went and sat on a wall & pulled out my map again. I knew there was a statue by Donatello somewhere nearby (considered to be one of finest examples of Renaissance bronze sculpture) but I couldn't see it. Sometimes it pays to look up - I was sitting on it!
Padova was once a walled medieval city. Not much of the wall remains, but there are occasional glimpses.
A nice pair of buildings in the main street.
This isn't actually Padova - it's me standing on a bridge in Venice after another lovely vegan meal at Gam Gam. Tonight is my last night here. As much as the crowds bother me, I will miss the crazy city.

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